Tapas

April 6, 2009
Goldstein, author of Antipasti
and Italian Slow and Savory
, ably whittles down the expansive gastronomy of Spain into a worthy, compact cookbook. Instead of attempting an impossible feat—to include every component of the Spanish table in a glossy, chic nutshell—she wisely chooses the best of each dish, starting with five basic sauces that can be applied to the seafood, meat, vegetable and egg recipes that follow. Though a few dishes are larger than a typical small-plate (Asturian white bean stew or paprika-marinated pork tenderloin, for example), Goldstein stays true to the fundamental procedures and ingredients used in modern Spanish kitchens. Salty, spicy and sweet, Goldstein offers innovative tapas, showcasing the best of each of Spain’s diverse regions. Each recipe comes with wine pairings, both Spanish and non-Spanish, and the book begins with a clever rundown of Spain’s history, cheeses, cured meats and fish. While some recipes might seem daunting for beginners (cleaning squid or handling a whole octopus), there is also an entire chapter dedicated to “Shop-and-Serve Tapas” that require little to no preparation. With vibrant photos and straightforward instructions, this book has all the makings of a reliable source of fun, crowd-pleasing ideas for the contemporary cook.

May 15, 2009
Celebrated chef and restaurateur Goldstein contributes her unique take on the increasingly popular Spanish tradition of tapas, small plates of foods that she adapts to so many varying uses for home cooks. Beginning with a detailed inventory of Spanish ingredients, Goldstein analyzes the components of Spanish cookery, providing one of the most accessible introductions in English to the full range of flavors and techniques that make this cuisine unique. Although there are plenty of meat and seafood dishes here, the number of vegetable dishes will appeal to noncarnivores as well. Recipes yield anywhere from 4 to 12 and more servings, which allows cooks to expand them to main courses beyond their use as tapas. To many of the recipes Goldstein appends one or two variations, inspiring home cooks to apply a recipes principles to produce individualized results. Beischs vivid color photographs make even mundane bean dishes look regal.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2009, American Library Association.)